Subtitles of the Movie

Now let's head over into the other side of the camera raw interface which is comprised of these little buttons here known as tabs and each one has its own functionality. I'm gonna cover most of them and lets start off with the basic. With basic as with most other camera raw features or rather all of them we're working in a non destructive smart object style where as whatever we do here is set in the meta data of our file and we can always come back and make changes with this file. So no matter what we do you're never really gonna destroy it because we can always come back and have access to these sliders. Alright now the sliders by the way are really cool because they provide you a kind of hint as to what's gonna happen here. So with temperature we see that we have blue here which heads towards cooler colors and we have the yellowish area which goes towards warmer colors and so on with the rest of the sliders. So they give you a little indication in the color themselves or the tone as to what you're doing. Lets start off with the white balance. With the white balance we can uh use the uh setting as shot by my camera we can choose auto and have the plug in change the settings as you see looks much better already and we can choose custom and what I'm gonna do is go back to the auto and also show you that we can have a histogram that we can keep our eye on. And we'll talk about these guys in just a moment. These are my little clipping warnings here so we have our shadow clipping and we also have our highlight clipping and I'll get back to those in a moment. Now we can also adjust the temperature to make the image cooler as you see there and we can make it warmer. Likewise we can also adjust the tint. So we can introduce more green or we can introduce more magenta to the image. What we can also do is work with the exposure. Now the exposure allows you to set the white point or work with the right side of this histogram so if I move the exposure you'll notice that the histogram shifts to uh show me what I'm doing here. Like wise I can move the exposure to my left and I'm moving all the pixels towards black. So this in effect is a white point slider. Now the recovery is very handy because recovery allows you to bring back any detail lost through highlight clipping. So if I uh really want my exposure up too high and I click on this button here I can see that these are the areas that are clipped because of the highlights. So this has gone way, way too far. Now what I can then do to recover some of that detail is use the recovery slider to pull those details back into my image. So as you see I'm gonna just drop this exposure down, just back to something that's a little bit more reasonable and I'll bring my recovery back down as well. The fill light is the opposite of recovery in that it allows us to get back any shadow clipping. And once again we can see any shadow clipping by clicking on this slider here or rather this icon. We can also uh use the black slider which is the same way the exposure works and what the blacks allow us to do is to set the black point and once again the histogram will move and we'll see the pixels shift toward black. We also have the ability to work with brightness and contrast sliders. Let me move this interface up a little tiny bit and you'll see that we have something called clarity, vibrance and saturation. Clarity helps you to adjust the contrast in your image in more moderate levels and vibrance allows you to do it, adjust the saturation in moderate levels as opposed to saturation which is pretty much you know all the way either too saturated or de-saturated. Let's talk about this next tab which is the tonal curve and this is very nice because instead of setting points manually what you can do is use the sliders to change how the curve works. And as I mentioned before the sliders give you a hint as to what's happening. In this case with darks we see that the black parts of the uh slider are going to take our image towards the darker regions as opposed to the lighter uh regions. So that's what this will do for you. We also have detail where we can uh adjust the sharpening, the radius and the masking. We have noise reduction. We also have the ability to work with the hue saturation and luminance which is very handy and what we can do as well is use the saturation tab or luminance tab to use these sliders to really nit pick and adjust our image to get exactly what we want to. So we can adjust the yellows, we can adjust the greens, the aquas, the blues, all manually and we can also convert the image to greyscale by simply clicking this one button. Now we have a tab called split toning and what we can do is change the hue and we can also adjust the saturation. So we can adjust the hue and the saturation in both the hue area as far as highlights, the shadow area and we have the balance which is a nice balance in between the two of them. And once again as I mentioned earlier we have these other areas here which deal with lens corrections that deal with the camera calibration and an area where you can save any presets that you really like. So if you like to save a preset that you worked on, you click on this button here and then you can name your preset, you can also choose any of the settings that you like to have and then you can click ok. So let me go ahead and just name this something, click OK and now your preset is gonna be in this area here. So what we can do is we can click on our other image and let me go grab the woods02 or rather woods01, open this in our camera raw interface and we can apply that same setting. So let me just go ahead and zoom all the way out, fit into view, and I'm gonna go and click on my woods preset and the woods preset will be applied to that image. And that in a nutshell is camera raw 4.1 in my case until Adobe updates it and I hope you enjoy it and I hope that camera raw can really help you to tune your images before you bring them into Photoshop CS3. Once again if you're done click on done, your settings are applied to the image and when we go back to the bridge, we'll see a little icon up here that tells us the image has been modified and we can always go back to the bridge and change these images at any time. They are not black and white permanently, you can always go back to the bridge, turn off that greyscale checkmark and continue to work on your images. And as a matter fact I'll show you that very briefly before we end this uh particular lesson. I'm gonna go back to the bridge and I'm gonna go to let me go back to that tab. I'm gonna turn off the convert to greyscale and there you go it's back to full color and we can continue to fix the image or go back to the way it used to look back in the beginning by going to the reset button hitting reset and going back to the way it was before we opened it back into camera raw. So you can either go back to the way it was in the bridge or you can reset it by turning off the button and always changing the sliders. So its parametric way of working where as your not really damaging any pixels. It's a nice safe way to play around in your image before you are ready to bring it into Photoshop.